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Chainrings are not unfamiliar to most cyclists; they are the chainring plates that rotate the crank and transfer pressure from the pedals. The tooth count (t) is the main distinction between different chainrings, which affects the bike’s characteristics and riding experience.
Most road bikes come with double chainrings. The larger bike chainring provides a bigger, harder bicycle gear ratios that allows you to move farther with each pedal stroke, ideal for sprinting at higher speeds (but not for extended periods).
The smaller chainring provides an easier gear ratio, meaning less distance is covered per pedal stroke – suitable for lower-speed rides, including uphill climbs.
Standard bike chainring
A standard bike chainring typically features a 53-tooth (or 52-tooth) large ring and a 39-tooth small ring. This was once standard on road bikes and the choice of professional riders (who might use even larger rings for time trials or flat stages).
The 53/39 chainring is now less common outside of professional use, so the term “standard chainring” is somewhat outdated. Shimano and Campagnolo only offer standard chainrings in their high-end groupsets.
Professional riders, needing more power and speed, have newer options like Shimano’s latest DA groupset, which offers a 54/40 chainring combination.
Compact bike chainring
A compact chainring has a 50-tooth outer chainring and a 34-tooth inner chainring. It’s popular because it’s easier to pedal, and with the trend of high-cadence riding (torque vs cadence sensor on e-bike), this smaller chainring is becoming more favored as it puts less strain on the knees.
One drawback of the compact chainring is that you may spin out on fast downhills. The three biggest groupset manufacturers all offer compact chainrings in their road bike groups, reflecting their popularity.
Semi-compact bike chainring
The semi-compact chainring, sometimes called mid-compact or faux-pro, features a 52-tooth outer ring and a 36-tooth inner ring.
Semi-compact chainrings have grown in popularity over the last few years, helping many amateur riders progress. Shimano and Campagnolo offer semi-compact chainrings in most of their road groupsets, except for entry-level ones.
Sub-compact bike chainring
Smaller than a 50/39 compact chainring, sub-compact chainrings typically come in 48/32 or 46/30 combinations.
These further reduce the overall gear ratio, making climbs easier. Gravel bikes and some hardtail mountain bikes commonly use these chainrings, suitable for more challenging and steeper terrain (XC bike vs. Gravel bike).
Triple bike chainring
As the name suggests, a triple chainring has three chainrings. Shimano offers triple chainrings in its lower-end groupsets like Claris, Sora, and Tiagra, typically in a 50/39/30t combination.
Campagnolo only recently began offering a triple chainring (52/39/30) in its Athena group. SRAM does not offer a triple chainring system.
The triple chainring has a very small inner ring, providing more overlapping gear ratios. It’s an excellent option for touring bikes that need to carry heavy loads while climbing.
Single bike chainring
SRAM is the only manufacturer offering a single-ring road bike groupset (top 10 road bike groupsets manufacturers in the world). SRAM claims this setup is simpler, with no front derailleur to rub the chain, and quieter on rough surfaces.
SRAM also states that the chainring’s tooth design, featuring tall and square-edged teeth, engages the chain earlier, offering better chain retention.
While this 1x system is rare on road bikes, it’s quite popular on gravel and cyclocross bikes.
Differences between various bike chainring specifications
Assume your bike is equipped with 700 x 25c bike tires and uses a common 11-28T cassette.
If you switch to a standard chainring and ride with a 39T small chainring and a 28T maximum sprocket, the effective gear length is 36.7 inches. In other words, if you pedal at a cadence of 80 rpm, you will ride at a speed of 14 km/h.
If you switch to a compact chainring and use a 34T small chainring and a 28T maximum sprocket, the effective gear length is 32 inches, much smaller than the standard chainring.
This means the pedaling force can be reduced, and if you pedal at 80 rpm, you will ride at a speed of 12 km/h, which is much slower than with the standard chainring at the same cadence.
If you use a mid-compact chainring and ride with a 36T small chainring and a 28T maximum sprocket, the effective gear length is 33.9 inches. If you pedal at 80 rpm, you will ride at a speed of 13 km/h.
In short, compact chainrings are more suitable for most riders when climbing steep hills, while standard chainrings allow for better speed control on fast descents, and mid-compact chainrings fall somewhere in between.
Replacing chainrings
What should you do if the chainring you’re using doesn’t suit you? In many cases, riders opt to only replace the chainring, as it’s more economical.
However, many forget an important detail: the new chainring must have the same bolt circle diameter (BCD) and bolt spacing as the current crankset. For example, if you have a 110mm BCD compact chainring, it cannot be installed on a 130mm BCD crankset.
Also, don’t forget that if you change the chainring size, you should adjust the position of the front derailleur accordingly and alter the chain length.
How to maintain and clean bike chainring, cassettes, and chains
These three components are often the dirtiest parts of the bike, as lubricating oils tend to attract dust. To clean the chainring, apply dish soap to a cloth and wipe each tooth thoroughly. After rinsing with water, you’ll be amazed at how shiny and clean the chainring looks.
Next is cleaning the cassette. First, remove the rear wheel by loosening the rear brake. Loosen the quick-release bolts on either side of the rear wheel, and gently tap the wheel to remove it. Place the wheel on the ground, wipe the cassette clean, and reassemble the wheel, paying attention to the position of the rear derailleur.
Lastly, clean the chain. After extended riding, chains tend to collect mud and dirt. Two methods are recommended for chain cleaning: First, use kerosene. Wrap a kerosene-soaked cloth around the chain and move it back and forth.
The downside is that it may leave an odor and oil stains. The second method is using dish soap. It’s best to use 45°C hot water, as it enhances the cleaning effect. Wipe the chain with a soapy cloth and scrub each link with a stiff brush. Soon, the chain will regain its original shine.
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